THE NEW VANGUARD: RECLAIMING POWER WITH Barbara Jankovic’s VIRAGO

The present moment is defined by a singular necessity: the elevation of the independent voice. There is no story without the present, and our present—represented by the raw energy of young designers and the agility of independent labels—serves as the definitive blueprint for our future. Without their fresh perspectives and unyielding innovative spirit, the path forward for the industry would remain uncertain and undefined. It is within this context of creative renewal that we introduce Virago, a label that doesn’t just design garments but architects a new social consciousness.

Behind the label is the visionary Barbara Jankovic, a designer whose intellectual approach to fashion transcends the runway. In a recent exclusive interview for Trend Privé Magazine, Jankovic got into the profound philosophy behind a brand that is rapidly becoming a beacon for the modern iconoclast. The name “Virago” carries a rich, albeit complicated, historical weight. Traditionally used to label women who transgressed societal boundaries with their strength or “masculine” spirit, it was often weaponized as a term of constraint. However, in a radical reimagining, Jankovic has seized this linguistic relic and transformed it into a banner of resilience. By reclaiming “Virago,” she has effectively erased the stigma of the past, breathing new life into a word that now signifies courage and a fierce defiance against outdated norms.

Under Jankovic’s direction, Virago functions as a wrecking ball to the walls that have historically limited individual expression. The label heralds a new era where personal creativity isn’t just permitted—it is celebrated as a fundamental human right.

The physical output of the brand is as compelling as its manifesto. Each piece crafted under the Virago label serves as a testament to exceptional quality and avant-garde design. There is a meticulousness to the construction that speaks to the “slow fashion” movement, yet the aesthetic remains firmly rooted in the future. These are garments created to inspire and uplift, acting as armor for the contemporary trailblazer. Yet, Virago is more than a sartorial statement; it is a burgeoning community. It represents a sophisticated network of innovators driven by a shared passion for the “new.”

“We seek to champion creativity in all its forms, encouraging our community to think beyond the expected and venture boldly into uncharted territory,” Jankovic reflects. “Our aspiration is to cultivate a space where artistic expression thrives, where ideas flourish, and where every individual feels empowered to share their voice with the world.”

Barbara Jankovic’s vision reflects a deeper narrative perfectly aligned with today’s cultural zeitgeist. The label’s ethos is built upon the pillars of diversity, inclusivity, and a multi-faceted approach to the creative process. With each collection, Jankovic challenges traditional tropes, inviting the wearer to explore the deep emotional resonance embedded within each seam and silhouette.

As the industry grapples with its identity, Virago offers a clear, resonant answer. It posits that fashion is merely the medium, not the end goal. As Jankovic eloquently puts it: “Fashion is just the beginning. The real revolution lies in the stories we share and the connections we forge.”

https://viragoofficial.com/

TPM: Barbara, could you elaborate on your creative process when designing a new collection for VIRAGO? What stages do you typically go through from the first spark of inspiration to the final product, and how do you integrate the themes of resilience and empowerment into each stage of that process?

I can’t really say I have exact pieces in mind when coming up with a collection because I start off with a story. Writing is something I do in my spare time, so I try to come up with an event, a character or a plot first.

After that, I think about colors first. Colors aren’t something I disregard or choose last, it’s probably the main element for me, I see each of them as their own sub-story. From color I move to silhouettes and eventually to concrete pieces. The last step is making them as wearable as possible – my goal is to come up with pieces you can spend your day (or night) in, not something you throw on for a photo or a quick outing. Resilience and empowerment naturally find their way into the process through these stories and characters. They shape the mood of the collection and influence how the pieces feel when worn, encouraging the person wearing them to move through the world with confidence.

TPM: Craftsmanship is significant to the identity and quality of your brand. How do you ensure that each piece meets high standards of quality, and what specific materials and construction techniques do you prioritize in your designs? Can you share how these choices impact the final garment?

Craftsmanship is really important to me because I want each piece to feel intentional and long-lasting. I focus on using quality materials that have structure and will age well, and I work closely on the construction so the garments feel solid and well made. I try to keep the process thoughtful and slow, rather than rushing production.

Those choices make a big difference in the final piece. The garment keeps its shape, feels good to wear, and becomes something people can return to over time rather than just a one-season item.

TPM: Storytelling through fashion is a hallmark of VIRAGO. How do you consciously embed narratives into your design process? Are there particular symbols, motifs, or elements you regularly use to convey the stories that are important to your brand and its values?

Storytelling is usually where my design process begins. I start with a written narrative or idea, and the collection slowly grows from that foundation. Instead of directly illustrating a story, I try to translate its mood and meaning into silhouettes, textures, and small details within the garments. There aren’t always fixed symbols or motifs, but I tend to return to elements that feel strong and intentional – structured shapes, darker tones, and subtle details that suggest resilience. I like the idea that the story isn’t completely obvious; it’s something people can discover and interpret in their own way.

TPM: The creative journey is often full of resistance. Can you describe a specific moment when you faced significant creative resistance and how you overcame it? What strategies did you implement to reconnect with your vision and maintain momentum in your design process during those difficult times?

One moment that stands out was while developing a collection when I felt completely disconnected from the work. There was pressure to make the pieces more “marketable,” and it started pulling me away from the original idea behind the collection.

What helped was stepping back and returning to the beginning of the process, the story. I went back to writing and revisiting my notes, sketches, and thoughts that inspired the collection in the first place. That helped me reconnect with the original vision and move forward with more clarity. I learned that creative resistance usually means I need to slow down and return to the core idea rather than force the process.

TPM: Staying attuned to the evolving fashion landscape while remaining steadfast in your core values is crucial. How do you handle the pressures of market demands, societal trends, and consumer expectations while ensuring that your brand’s essence remains intact? What role does market research play in your creative decisions?

The ironic thing is that the more I work in fashion, the less I care about trends or industry “rules”. When I first started, I spent my days obsessing over trend predictions and what is considered the correct way to do things, until I realized that constantly chasing those things can easily make your work lose its identity.

Now I focus much more on the story and values. Of course I’m aware of what’s happening in the industry, but I don’t let it dictate my decisions. Market awareness is useful, but it’s more of a background reference than a driving force. Staying consistent with the brand’s core ideas feels far more important than trying to keep up with every shift in the market.

TPM: Collaboration is essential in the fashion industry. How do you approach collaboration with other creatives, artisans, and brands, and how do these partnerships enhance and enrich your design process? Could you recount a specific collaboration that had a profound impact on your creative work?

Collaboration is something I value because fashion rarely exists in isolation. I like working with creatives who bring their own perspective, because they interpret the garments in ways I wouldn’t have imagined on my own. Those exchanges naturally enrich the process and help expand the story around the pieces.

On our website we also have a section called Chronicles, where we document creative projects and collaborations. Recently we launched our first non-commercial project there, which was simply about gathering a small team of creatives and building a visual story together. There wasn’t a commercial goal behind it, just the intention to explore an idea and create something meaningful as a group. Projects like that are really important to me because they allow Virago to exist not only as a clothing brand, but also as a creative platform where different disciplines and perspectives can come together.

TPM: Fashion is powerful in evoking emotions. How do you aim to empower and uplift individuals through your designs? Do you have any anecdotes or feedback from customers that illustrate the emotional connection they feel when wearing your creations?

For me, empowerment in fashion comes from creating pieces that make people feel strong and comfortable in their own identity. Virago was built around the idea of reclaiming strength and resilience, so I try to design garments that carry that feeling through their structure, presence, and simplicity.

I’ve heard from many women how relaxed and sensual they feel in our Stria co-ord, which is exactly the kind of emotional connection I hope to create. Moments like that remind me that clothing can go beyond aesthetics – it can become part of someone’s personal expression and a way to feel confident in their own skin. Also, we just debuted our brand logo, or a symbol as I like to call it, and people in my life are completely in love with it – two of them told me they want to have it as a tattoo. So yeah, that’s great to hear.

TPM: The historical weight of the term “Virago” plays a significant role in your brand identity. How do you balance this rich heritage with the contemporary vision you wish to convey? Are there references or aspects of history that inspire your current work while celebrating the modernization of the term?

“Virago” carries a lot of history. For a time, it was used to constrain, to define women in ways that limited them. For me, reclaiming that word is an act of transformation. I embrace its weight while shifting its meaning toward strength, creativity, and resilience.

In practice, that balance shows up in the way I approach design: I respect the gravitas of the past through thoughtful, intentional construction and silhouettes, but I allow the pieces to exist fully in the present – wearable, modern, and open to interpretation. I often draw inspiration from historical forms, gestures, and symbols, but I distill them into something that feels contemporary and liberating. The goal is to honor what came before while offering a new vision—one where “Virago” isn’t a label that confines, but a title of empowerment and self-expression that anyone can inhabit today.

TPM: Sustainability is an increasingly important topic in fashion. How do your philosophies about resilience and empowerment influence your approach to sustainability, both in the materials you choose and the production processes you implement? What specific efforts have you made towards sustainable practices within your collections?

I see it as an extension of the brand’s values: creating pieces that last, both in quality and relevance, rather than contributing to disposable fashion. In practice, that means continuing to choose better, longer-lasting materials, using deadstock fabrics whenever possible, and producing in limited quantities. Each decision is intentional, aimed at reducing waste while ensuring that every piece feels considered and meaningful. It’s not about following trends in sustainability, it’s about aligning the brand’s philosophy with how the garments are made and how they live in someone’s wardrobe over time.

TPM: Finally, considering your commitment to craftsmanship and quality, how do you envision maintaining these high standards as your brand continues to grow and possibly expand into new markets? What systems or practices do you have in place to ensure that every piece reflects the values and integrity of VIRAGO?

As we grow, I see maintaining craftsmanship and quality as a commitment to the very soul of the brand. Every piece carries intention, and that intention can’t be lost, even as we expand into new markets.

To protect that, I stay deeply involved in every stage—selecting materials, shaping construction, and overseeing finishing. Producing in small, deliberate quantities allows us to preserve care and attention in each garment. Growth isn’t about volume, it’s about expanding the reach of something meaningful without ever diluting its integrity. Every piece must carry the same strength, presence, and thoughtfulness that defines Virago.