BEAUTY HIGHLIGHTS: MILAN FASHION WEEK MEN’S SS 2027
Fashion Week is often discussed through the lens of collections, fabrics, silhouettes, and seasonal trends. Yet, time and again, it is the beauty narrative — the backstage moments, the hairstyling choices, the makeup textures, and the subtle gestures that frame a face — that reveals some of the most compelling truths about a designer’s vision. During Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS27, moving between backstage moments, interviews, and runway presentations, one clear impression emerged: while each designer articulated a distinct aesthetic universe, many seemed to share the same underlying ambition. That is, to speak about real people, authentic identities, and multifaceted personalities — without masking them behind overconstructed beauty codes.
Words by Stella Grossu
From the imaginative world of Simon Cracker to the quiet naturalism of QASIMI, and the retro-inflected elegance of Martin Quad, beauty was not an accessory to the collections, but a powerful extension of their message. Never overpowering the clothes, it instead sharpened their meaning, giving each show an additional layer of narrative depth.
Simon Cracker | The Unconventional Siren
Among the beauty looks that stayed with me most vividly was undoubtedly the one presented by Simon Cracker. Backstage, the Key Makeup Artist, Roberta Anzaldi, explained that the inspiration drew from the mythology of mermaids — an imaginative reference that translated into silver reflections, a liquid-like luminosity across the eyelids, and delicate details evoking the shimmer of sea scales. What stood out was the balance: despite the highly creative starting point, the final result never felt excessive. It remained perfectly aligned with Una favola estiva fastidiosa, a collection that celebrates freedom, creativity, and the courage to be oneself. In this context, the beauty look became an extension of the collection’s whimsical spirit — poetic, eccentric, but always controlled.
Key Makeup Artist: Roberta Anzaldi | Key Hairstylist: Beppe D’Elia
Photography by @lanaleym
QASIMI | When Naturalness Becomes a Statement
With Undercurrent, QASIMI reflects on the traces left behind by time, by gestures, and by human labor. It is a collection rooted in process, memory, and lived experience — and the beauty direction follows the same philosophy. Here, there are no dramatic effects, no theatrical attempts to generate instant impact. The skin remains natural, luminous, and authentic, allowing the models’ faces to retain their individuality. Watching the runway, the impression was that beauty served the narrative rather than competing with it. It was a discreet choice, but an exceptionally effective one: restrained, intelligent, and deeply coherent with the emotional intelligence of the collection.
Key Makeup Artist: Crystabel Efemena Riley | Key Hairstylist: Laurence Walker
Photography by @lanaleym
GARCIAS | Identity as Strength
Making its debut in the official calendar of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Garcias brought to the runway a collection that speaks about belonging, roots, and the meeting of cultures. The beauty direction echoed this vision with remarkable clarity. No face was transformed into a standardized ideal. On the contrary, each model retained his own identity and expressive specificity. That authenticity was precisely what left the strongest impression: the sense that every person on the runway had something singular to communicate. In a fashion landscape often shaped by homogenized aesthetics, Garcias offered a refreshing reminder that identity itself can be the most powerful statement of all.
Key Makeup Artist: Marco Todaro | Key Hairstylist: Roberto Renna
Photography by @lanaleym
TELL THE TRUTH | The Power of Authenticity
Inspired by the story of David and Goliath, the DAVID collection explores courage, resilience, and determination. Here too, beauty chooses the path of naturalness. Makeup enhances the models’ character without disguising it, leaving room for each individual’s personality to emerge with clarity. The effect is understated, yet compelling. At a time when fashion often seems driven by the construction of flawless, hyper-curated images, this kind of choice feels almost radical. It reminds us that strength does not always come from polish — sometimes it comes from truth.
Key Makeup Artist: Valentina Rodella | Key Hairstylist: The Idola Milano team
Photography by @lanaleym
Martin Quad | Between Past and Present
At Martin Quad, it was the hairstyling that captured my attention most immediately. The inspiration came from the post-war era: soft waves, sculpted curls, and a deep, sharply defined side part recalling the elegance of the 1950s. What made the look particularly effective was the way these historical references were reinterpreted through a contemporary lens, never slipping into nostalgia. The result was a beauty language that dialogued beautifully with the collection’s craftsmanship and research-driven approach. It felt considered, intelligent, and quietly cinematic — a subtle but memorable detail within the visual identity of Mood Man.
Key Makeup Artist: Roberta Anzaldi | Key Hairstylist: Davide Marzola
Photography by @lanaleym
Domenico Orefice | A Personal Kind of Beauty
At the heart of Domenico Orefice’s collection lies the theme of habitat — the most intimate meaning of the word home.
The beauty concept emerges from the same idea. Backstage, I was told that each woman was interpreted differently: a statement lip for some, a more intense gaze for others, always with a liberated, contemporary, slightly rock’n’roll attitude. There was no universal rule, no imposed formula. And perhaps that is exactly what made the look so compelling. Just as each of us inhabits the idea of home differently, beauty too can be deeply personal — shaped by identity, instinct, and lived experience.
Key Makeup Artist: Giulio Panciera | Key Hairstylist: Henry Olivier
Photography by @lanaleym
After observing these shows up close, one thought remained particularly vivid: the beauty of SS27 does not seek to transform people into characters. Instead, it aims to amplify identity, emotion, and individuality. And perhaps that is the most compelling direction fashion can take today.
Stella Grossu, Beauty Editor | Trend Privé Magazine
